Nope, no genre preferences. I have an open mind. However I'd prefer free/abandonware to shareware releases if you don't mind.
In this how-to, you be guided through the full process of setting up MacOS 7.5.3 and optionally the 7.5.5 update on Basilisk II, the freeware Mac II emulator designed by Christian Bauer, from scratch using only freeware, downloadable items. The Mac 68k emulator [1] was a software emulator built into all versions of the classic Mac OS for PowerPC.This emulator permitted the running of applications and system code that were originally written for the 680x0 based Macintosh models.
I think this has what you're looking for: I put this up because you should at least try the Escape Velocity games. That plane game, the name escapes me at the mo.you have to guide a little plane through obsticles, through a house and other.Excellent game I think you're talking about Glider. The company that published Glider went out of business sometime ago and the creator of that game decided to make it public domain. He put most versions of Glider on a page and it even has the Windows version. The player made Houses are a rather hard to find. Thanks for the link to Macintosh Garden! I downloaded a crap ton of software from there.
Now would be the time to go play them all. EDIT: Deleted a redundancy. If my G3 Macintosh didn't suddenly die this morning. It was running perfectly yesterday, now it won't turn on. When I press the power button, the monitor starts up, then sometimes the speakers pop and the monitor powers down again. The power button never lights up, the monitor never fully turns on, it sort of 'engages'. I can hear static electricity buildup/dispersion from the monitor.
Anyone know what could be causing this? Edited by Koopa64, Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:05 PM. If its a iMac G3 then that sign is not a good thing.
The power board loves to go bad in them after a while. But normally they show some signs, like the monitor having issues and the like before they go out. Now you can try opening it up and removing the pram battery and holding the cuda reset button up to 15-30 seconds, if that still dont do it then things do not look good. They also have the issue with the power button under the monitor sticking in the pressed position, see if its stuck and pop it out and use the power button on the keyboard. Edited by madmax2069, Sun Oct 24, 2010 1:09 PM. Well, the monitor did have green tint on the right most side of the screen, but it would go away after a while.
My Mom (yeah yeah.) warned me that this Mac probably wasn't gonna last long. But I didn't think it would only make it one day out of storage. The last time I opened a computer to fix it, I killed it beyond repair, so I really don't want to open up this Macintosh. Knowing my bad luck I'll probably kill the hard drive and all that valuable information on it. I'm positive the power button is fine. As I said, I can hear the monitor wind up, but then it just dies off. It tries to start up but fails for some weird reason.
It reminds me of an old TV I had that died the same way. Well, the monitor did have green tint on the right most side of the screen, but it would go away after a while. My Mom (yeah yeah.) warned me that this Mac probably wasn't gonna last long. But I didn't think it would only make it one day out of storage. The last time I opened a computer to fix it, I killed it beyond repair, so I really don't want to open up this Macintosh. Knowing my bad luck I'll probably kill the hard drive and all that valuable information on it. I'm positive the power button is fine.
As I said, I can hear the monitor wind up, but then it just dies off. It tries to start up but fails for some weird reason. It reminds me of an old TV I had that died the same way. Thats normally what happens and the tattle tell signs when that power board (analog board) goes out.
You can look for a few take apart guides, depending on what model of iMac it is depends on how to take it apart, it looks hard at first but its actually really easy. Edited by madmax2069, Sun Oct 24, 2010 2:28 PM.
I think I'll just buy an eMac instead. I don't feel like bricking another computer again. Thanks for your help anyways.
Nice to get a proper diagnosis. You should buy a 68k Mac to run the old 68k software something with a 68040 because it has a FPU and some software requires a FPU ( a 68LC040 is basicly the same as a 68040 but lacks a FPU and have to replace the CPU with a 68040 to gain a FPU).
A eMac has the same issues as the iMac G3 with the power board/analog board eventually going bad, i would stay away from them. I bought a Performa 475 just for playing old 68k software and upgraded it and could not be more happy.
Since you iMac is already showing signs of death (unless you try to revive it), you wont do any more damage in seeing if it can be fixed by something simple. And then you would learn about it as you go, which is fun to do. Because as its sits now its basically a door stop.
Edited by madmax2069, Sun Oct 24, 2010 4:24 PM. You probably don't realize I also played games made for OS 8/9 right? I'm NEVER gonna find something as old as a 68k Macintosh around here anyways.
The emulation worked great, that G3 iMac has worked great ever since we bought it a decade ago. It just up and died today. My Mom's eMac still works fine. The monitor sometimes goes dim, other times the brightness comes back. I think you're just over exaggerating the power board failure. I'm just gonna get an eMac from someplace local, instead of hunting forever for a 68k Macintosh.
IMacs have inherent failure issues yes, but whenever one died we would just replace it with a new (or barely used) one. Right now we have 3 iMac G3s and one eMac perfectly working. The 4th one I was gonna use, but again it up and died for no reason at all. Edit for clarity Edited by Koopa64, Sun Oct 24, 2010 4:28 PM. I accidentally dropped that iMac G3 on the carpet and the front frame popped off and chunks of the frail beige colored plastic underneath broke off as well. I put the frame back on (can't get the right side on properly) and I thought 'this thing got dropped pretty hard, maybe it dislodged something causing it to not power on?' , so I plugged it back in and turned it on.
Astonishingly enough, it powered back up! The hard drive still boots fine and everything! Monitor still has a green tint when starting up but again, it goes away after a while.
I'm pretty happy actually, but it'll probably stop powering up again sooner or later (maybe tomorrow knowing my luck). Still gonna get an eMac, but still at least I can play these games now!
The Quadra 605 is an Apple Macintosh personal computer based on the Motorola 68LC040 CPU. Code-named “Aladdin” or “Primus” it was released on October 21, 1993 as part of the Quadra series and discontinued on October 17, 1994. With an elegant, minimalistic design the Quadra 605 is one of the few Macintosh models that does not share a case with another machine. The internal layout and components are identical to the Apple Macintosh Performa/LC 475 and 476. Complete system specifications Download operating systems compatible with the Quadra 605 Various upgrades and modifications to Quadra 605 hardware Photographs of Quadra 605 hardware EMULATOR Basilisk II is a Macintosh 68k emulator that allows you to run the classic Macintosh OS and applications on modern computers. These downloads are fully configured versions of Basilisk II that include the required ROM as well as a hard drive image with Mac OS 8.1 and various applications. DOWNLOADS.
– bootable retail CD image (.iso). – bootable retail CD image (.iso).
– bootable CD image (.iso) with every Mac OS from 1.0 through 8.1. – fully configured 68k emulator with Quadra ROM and hard drive image with System 8.1 installed. – fully configured 68k emulator with Quadra ROM and hard drive image with System 8.1. Installed. – for use with emulators such as Basilisk II DOCUMENTATION. TROUBLESHOOTING.
No video on startup: If you hear the startup chord but video never initializes, the logic board battery is probably dead. Temporary workaround: Flip the power switch on and then quickly toggle the switch off and then on again. The system should then boot up normally.